Recognizing Black History in Southern Dining
"Southern cuisine has evolved, becoming celebrated nationwide, but we must never forget its roots or the people who cultivated them"
Southern food is the ultimate layer of comfort, a rich tapestry woven from history, tradition, and the deep connection between people and place. It's more than just a meal; it's a warm embrace, a story told through flavors passed down from generation to generation. The comforting aroma of cornbread fresh from the oven, the soulful simmer of greens on the stove, and the satisfying crunch of perfectly fried chicken—all evoke memories, both personal and collective, that ground us in our roots.
As a chef deeply rooted in Southern cuisine, I recognize that the food I create and the traditions I honor are inseparable from the histories and contributions of African Americans and immigrants. My journey through kitchens across the South has been shaped by the privilege of learning side-by-side with cooks whose stories, techniques, and resilience have profoundly influenced not only my career but who I am as a person.
Southern cuisine is more than comfort food—it's a testament to survival, adaptation, and creativity born from struggle and perseverance. Dishes like warm, yeast-raised biscuits with country ham, cornmeal-fried catfish, collard greens, and fried apple pies carry with them the legacies of generations who often cooked in the shadows, their names left out of history books despite their immeasurable impact.
At Ashford Acres Inn, we embrace the rich tapestry of cultures that have shaped our region. Our history as a Union headquarters during the Civil War is a reminder that places, like people, carry layered stories. Today, we honor that legacy by celebrating the diverse flavors and influences that define Southern cuisine. Every dish we serve tells a story—not just of ingredients, but of people.
Learning about the roots of Southern food means confronting uncomfortable truths. It means acknowledging the genius of cooks like Georgia Gilmore, who used her talent to support the Montgomery Bus Boycott, and Fannie Lou Hamer, a civil rights activist who championed food sovereignty through community farming initiatives. Their work transcends the plate; it's about community, resistance, and empowerment.
Many beloved Southern dishes were born from oppression yet transformed into symbols of strength. Take potlikker, the nutrient-rich broth left after cooking greens. Enslaved people, denied the greens themselves, found sustenance in this "leftover" liquid—a quiet act of resilience that continues to nourish us today. Recognizing these histories is not about guilt; it's about gratitude, respect, and responsibility.
As a white woman in the South, I understand that part of my role is to listen, learn, and amplify voices that history has too often silenced. It's my responsibility to ensure that the stories behind the food are told with honesty and reverence. Southern cuisine has evolved, becoming celebrated nationwide, but we must never forget its roots or the people who cultivated them.
At Ashford Acres, we are committed to honoring these traditions not just through our menu but through our ethos. We believe food is a powerful medium for storytelling, capable of bridging gaps and fostering understanding. Each dish is an opportunity to reflect on where we've been, who we are, and how we can move forward—together.
Audrey Middleton, Executive Chef, 2025
